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I've been experiencing a urushi reaction (AKA the "crusty soul patch") from my new flute. I could use some expert advice on getting the urushi fully cured and inert.
I know that moist heat is the necessary condition for curing urushi, but no more of the fine details. I've tried mounting the flute up near the shower rod and steaming up the bathroom, but I have no idea how long it should take.
Is it a matter of hours, days, or weeks? Must it be continuous, or will an accumulation of shorter sessions be effective?
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I have the unfortunate honor of being an expert on managing urushi reactions. Sadly, I have learned my lessons the hard way.
If all you are getting is the itchy soul patch problem your problems are relativly minor.
I highly recommend using a product that has helped me out a lot: Tecnu- Oak n Ivy. (In NY you can get this at most CVS outlets.) It is a cleanser that dissolves poison ivy and, apparently, Urushi oils. I am very sensitive to urushi and I find washing my hands and wiping my chin with Tecnu after playing a new flute helps tremendously.
Do this for a couple of weeks and by then the urushi on your newly lacquered flute should have cured enough not to bother you any more.
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Thanks, Seth. I, too, have become well acquainted with Tecnu (most helpful when you know you have been exposed, but haven't erupted yet) as well as Calagel (also from Tec Labs) which helps relieve the itching and oozing when you already have a reaction.
Since I don't really want to become any more of an expert on urushi reactions than I already am, I am looking for help in managing the urushi in my flute. Unfortunately, simply waiting a few weeks or even months won't solve the problem; with respect to urushi, "drying" and "curing" are very different matters. A poison oak plant could be uprooted, dead, and dried out for years and still cause us grief once we find it.
I'm still hoping that some experienced lacquerer can suggest a way to help convert this irritating agent into an inert protective finish.
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Unfortunately, the only things that are going to render the urushi inert are time and the presence of moisture. I don't think the application of heat to the process is useful or good for the shakuhachi.
If you keep the flute--when it's not being played--in a closed, fairly close-fitting container (like a long box or a heavy mailing tube with the ends sealed, or perhaps a piece of 3 or 4 inch pvc with end caps) and put a dampened sponge inside with the shakuhachi, you will speed the process as much as possible.
Some people wrap a dampened cloth around the shakuhachi to apply the moisture, but this makes me a bit nervous: It's what you do to a cracked flute to close the cracks, so it may be too much moisture applied too quickly.
eB
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I have had three seperate allergic episodes involving new or repaired flutes with fresh urushi.
In each instance the offending instrument no longer bothered me after a period of 2 - 4 weeks. I did not have to do anything special. I just let some time go by and in the interim I minmized the problem with the tecno.
Why do you think that just waiting a few weeks will not help?
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Seth wrote:
Why do you think that just waiting a few weeks will not help?
If you live(d) in a location with a rather high relative humidity, the urushi might cure in a few weeks time. In that case, all you had to do was wait a few weeks, but it isn't the passage of a few weeks that cured the urushi--it was the exposure to the humidity.
Since I'm not in a place with the necessary level of humidity, a few weeks or even a few years will not change the urushiol into cured lacquer. It behooves me to do what I can to goose the process along.
Following Ed's suggestion, I have kept the flute in a plastic document tube for the past week with a cello Dampit in each end of the bore. If I can resist the call of the new flute for another week, it might make the difference.
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Hope so...
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rpowers wrote:
I'm still hoping that some experienced lacquerer can suggest a way to help convert this irritating agent into an inert protective finish.
Hi Rich,
Is this a two piece? I often cure two piece 1.8s in a small Sterlite container with a small cup of water in it. Urushi needs about 60-70% humidity to cure. You can use an ice chest too. As a suggestion, you can try making a liquified concoction of Tecnu or Calagel and swabbing the flute out then rinsing with water. I often rinse out a newly cured urushi flute (one month) with Palmolive anti bacterial dishwashing soap. No one has ever gotten the rash.
Good luck, Perry
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Yungflutes wrote:
No one has ever gotten the rash.
Uhh... I actually got a bit of the poison ivy rash from the commissioned 3.3 you made me -- the rattan-wrapped joint seems to be the only place with still 'active' urushiol. After having a reaction the second time, I wrapped the rattan joint in a thin strip of cloth and taped it in place. I'm guessing the lacquer was applied to that area of the flute later than the rest. If it's any consolation, as a child, my reaction to poison ivy & poison oak was so severe at times that my eyelids swelled up to the point where I couldn't open my eyes. So this is nothing
Zakarius
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