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Does anyone know,i know its a newbi ? but im curious! because if it is similar, ''in any way'' i could work somthing into the puddy to make it set harder! ive never seen the urushi stuff so im in the dark! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by mopish (2008-02-24 18:38:58)
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No similarity between the two. Urushi is a liquid, like paint, that cures and hardens.
The inside surfaces of bores on jiari shakuhachi are built up using a plaster-like material mixed with urushi, then shaped during the tuning process, then the bore is coated with plain urushi to give it a glassy finish.
There is a type of modeling claylike material (one brand is called 'Sculpy'--it is synthetic) that can be hardened after forming, but heat must be used to do harden it--200 degree oven--can't do that to a bamboo shakuhachi without risking a crack. Plus, anything like that will tend to shrink a bit and pull away from the bore, PLUS, there's no good way to make the soft modeling material stick to the bore in the first place, before it's cured.
Look elsewhere for ideas.
eB
Last edited by edosan (2008-02-24 22:07:55)
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It's "putty" by the way
It is possible to use epoxy resin to build up the inside of a piece of bamboo. I think the Tei Hai "cast bore" shakuhachi are made this way. From my boat-building days, I remember a blend of glass microspheres and epoxy that made a light, tough space-filling paste. Maybe it could also be used to build a "epoxi-ari" flute?
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I have just used a product called 'Knead-It'. This is a putty like substance, soft, but contains the two ingredients to make a hard epoxy like filler. You take a portion of this material and fold it into itself repeatedly for about a minute, this mixes the two elements together. You then apply it to the area you wish to fill. Initially, for five to ten minutes it is sticky and soft, then begins to harden. After 24 hours it is cured chemically and can be filed, sanded etc.
I used it to fill in the upper side of a Shakuhachi finger hole to lower the pitch of that note. I improvised a mold to contain the putty while I pressed it in. After half an hour I was able to remove the containing mold, leaving the putty in place. The next day I filed and sanded the putty into shape. That was a week ago and the filler is still in place and I have been blowing this flute every day. I am so far pleased with the results.
I think the chemicals in this mix are similar to a product called 'Araldite', a two part liquid epoxy glue.
Kel.
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Be advised that epoxy resins have certain levels of toxicity, both to skin and if inhaled.
Sensitivity varies from person to person, but be sure whatever you use is well cured.
eB
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Ed, do you know what Monty is using ?
When I got my flute from him it had an aroma inside the bore, I emailed him asking about it. He did not know or realize any aroma came from the flute. I can still notice it 18 months later, though not as strong.
Kel.
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Monty's nose is probably adapted (read: destroyed) from snorting that stuff all these years...
I'm not sure what he's using now, but he used a particular brand of polyester or epoxy resin when I asked him about it in 1995.
After he finished fine tuning the bore, he'd coat the surface and the hole chimneys with black epoxy paint, using a poly cell
sponge attached to a long bamboo skewer.
I'm sure he'd tell you if asked.
eB
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Thanks for the advice guys,i had know idea what consistancy urushi had, but know that i know its a liquid it makes a whole lot more sence! Where can you get urushi! or is there like a formula for making it!
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mopish,
The Forum has an excellent search function, here: http://shakuhachiforum.com/search.php
If you type in:
urushi
urushi substitute
kashu
cashew
shellac
You will find MUCH fruitful food for thought.
The search function is your friend
eB
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A number of makers in Japan use an epoxy putty called "Bond Wood". It is not as dense as the Plumber's stuff found in the US, but sets up very hard after a number of hours and takes well to sanding. After it has been kneaded together it is quite soft and can easily be applied to the inside of the bore, in layers thicker than traditional urushi-based ji. It also seems quite dimensionally stable over time and is not as friable as the usual stuff. I find it much more friendly to work with and quicker than normal ji, and it cures much faster. I'm told by some of the other makers in Tokyo that another good substitue is body putty for cars, but I have never tried it.
Toby
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edosan wrote:
mopish,
The Forum has an excellent search function, here: http://shakuhachiforum.com/search.php
Hello my friend...
I think that there is a lot of repeated info on forum and I have seen some people pointing to the search engine, but personaly I like to make the conversations take Life...
It's very diferent to read an old post (although they are very useful and I use to read them) and receive a coment that gives to you a diferent perspective... The people sound more closer to each other...
That's a way to exchange some energies by great distances... Can we feel this on internet? I can (with some pc vibes around)... And you all? I think so...
: {p
Peace
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•
The Forum has an excellent search function, here: http://shakuhachiforum.com/search.php
•
eB
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Mopish, one small thing to take into account about urushi--it is basically the same chemical composition as the sap from poison ivy and poison oak. If you are allergic to Rhus (about 60% of the population is) urushi has to be handled with utmost care--it can cause terrible blisters and weeping which lasts for several weeks. Washing after using it doesn't really help, as the stuff chemically bonds to the skin within a few minutes. There are reports that if you are indeed allergic, you will develop a temporary immunity if you use it regularly, but if you stop using it for a period of time, you lose it and have to start over again.
Toby
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