Mujitsu and Tairaku's Shakuhachi BBQ

The best binding material I have used is a high tech fishing line called PowerPro. It is available at most outdoor sports stores. It costs more than most other monofilament lines but the 65 lb test PowerPro line is only as thick as a standard 15 lb test monofilament line. This allows for a much stronger/tighter binding without the added thickness. It has worked VERY well for me.

From what I have read, it seems that both monofilament and braided nylon fishing line would work well. The PowerPro line that I use has a braided look/feel to it but is super strong and micro thin. I use the green color and it looks good on bamboo,at least on Madake and Chinese Bamboo. Try looking at  www.powerpro.com

jamesnyman wrote:

The PowerPro line that I use has a braided look/feel to it but is super strong and micro thin. I use the green color and it looks good on bamboo,at least on Madake and Chinese Bamboo. Try looking at  www.powerpro.com

James, I've used PowerPro to bind twice and I agree -- it's impossibly strong for such a thin thread.  You probably know this, but if you apply a couple of drops of thin superglue to the microfilament, it will quickly wick around the entire binding (but not onto the bamboo) and dry to a nearly black color.  To my eye, the original green color is beautiful, but not as harmonious to bamboo as the very dark color, post glue.  I'd describe it as a dark seaweed green.

My minor complaint of PowerPro... even with 20 or 30 turns, the amount of flute covered by the binding is very short.  This might look out of proportion for long, fat flutes.  More turns, easily solved.

I'm tempted to try upholstery thread as a balance more thread thickness (than microfilament, for long flute aesthetics) but still very good strength (I think).  Anyone tried this?

-Darren.

jamesnyman wrote:

I am using polyurethane varnish...flowed on...which also gives the binding a nice green/black look in most cases.

James, a thin polyurethane varnish on the binding sounds like a great idea, thanks.  (Less chance of me sticking my fingerst together with the superglue approach!)

On that idea...  Have you or has anyone used a polyurethane varnish on the entire outside of the flute?  Durability of the stuff should be excellent, though maybe I'd risk making the surface look too plasticky.  I'll try it on some cheap bamboo and report back.  Polyurethane experiences, anyone?

-Darren.

Call me a fuddy-duddy, but what's wrong with just leaving the outside surface alone, as has been the norm for, lo, these past centuries.

If it works, don't 'fix' it...plain ol' bamboo is a thing of beauty and durability.

eB

edosan wrote:

Call me a fuddy-duddy, but what's wrong with just leaving the outside surface alone, as has been the norm for, lo, these past centuries.

If it works, don't 'fix' it...plain ol' bamboo is a thing of beauty and durability.

Heheh, don't worry Ed...  I'm not planning on dunking wonderfully naked jinashi nobekan (dare I say hocchiku) into polyurethane baths any time soon...  My question was mostly about finishing the root sections.  I'll start a new thread on that.

-Darren.

I have had very good luck with fly fishing leader as a surface binding.  It is stronger (by diameter) than other monofilament line.  The bindings are a pale greenish, and I do not think they detract much from the appearance.