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For the last twenty-five years I have been making pottery and am quite
familiar with ceramic techniques and processes. So, it was no surprise to me
that after two years of making and exploring Shakuhachi in bamboo, I would
want to see how they sounded if made of clay.
I began with a lathed wooden model of the bore, based on the tapered
dimensions in "Blowing Zen" by Carl Abbott. Knowing I will have shrinkage to
allow for, my model started at 30mm external diameter, tapering to 22mm at
the choke, with no bell as I wanted to make a one-piece mold in which to
slip-cast my flutes.
With reasonable success I produced a mold 565mm in length. After drying the
plaster mold for two weeks I made up some slip (clay made into a fluid using
deflocculant) and began to cast flutes. In this process, the longer you
leave the slip in the mold, the thicker the wall section of the flute, so my
first few casts were to determine this time period.
Once the bore was cast I allowed it to dry to 'leather hard', firm but not
brittle. At this point I measured and hand drilled the holes and broadly
initiated the Utaguchi. I then dried the flutes.
When I had a few dried I bisque fired them to harden them enough to continue
shaping the Utaguchi and fine tune. I could get a sound from them quite
easily at all stages. At the bisque stage I am using various grades of sand
paper to do my shaping. I have to 'get it right' at this stage because once
they are vitrified in the next firing, they are too hard to alter unless you
use a diamond tipped dentist drill.
I then dipped the flutes into glaze, wiping off the outer surface as I only
want glaze on the inside. Not for any visual or auditory reason, but because
the flute needs to sit in the kiln and glaze cannot be in contact with the
kiln shelving or it will fuse to it. I glaze both sides of the Utaguchi.
So after the glaze firing, the inside of the flute is glass and the outside
bare clay.
This one has a slight curve to the right.
Thanks Edosan for editing the image.
The flute had shrunk from 555mm to 505mm, a ten percent reduction, and is
playing a 'D' fundamental. So this version looks like it may become my
standard 1.8.
It is very bright and responsive. I am very pleased with this exploration
but not yet content. The otsu register plays well, but the upper kan is
difficult. I suspect the shorter length, I always found short bamboo more
difficult in the kan register. Plus the narrow bell end, I would like to
open this up.
I am already preparing my next version to be longer and a little fatter.
I am calling it a 'Cerute' - Ceramic Flute, they can be left out in the sun
or rain, played in the shower or bath, and washed in the dishwasher. But are
not to be dropped !
I enjoy playing them, the narrow bore is different but quite manageable, the
clay is cool but nice to hold.
The sound is quite different to my jinashi bamboo shakuhachi's. It is more like a
jiari. Glass and Ceramic are harder than steel, perhaps I will make some out
of porcelain, which is even harder again.
I am also going to apply a gold lustre to the glazed upper side of the
Utaguchi, a modest embellishment.
Interestingly, of the four I have so far completed, they do not all have the
same timbre. One has a slightly thicker wall section and more of a 'rasp'
then the others which are relatively smooth.
Kel. §
Last edited by Karmajampa (2006-08-12 03:06:13)
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Hi Kel
Wow that sounds like a lot of fun!! Great!
You say "The otsu register plays well,
> but the upper kan is
> difficult. I suspect the shorter length"
You also say " the narrow bore is different
> but quite managable,"
And you say "The flute had shrunken from 555mm to 505mm, a ten
> percent reduction, and is
> playing a 'D' fundamental."
Are you sure that it is 505mm with D fundamental? If so, I would guess that the bore is not narrow as you suggest, but very wide (relative to ordinary shakuhachi. That makes it not 1.8 but about 1.66 shaku. I which case, it may be that it is the wide bore which is causing kan to be difficult. A short shakuhachi in itself won't make kan difficult, but the length in relation to the narrowness /wideness of the bore will effect it.
Keep up the good work!
Justin
Last edited by Justin (2006-08-12 12:42:53)
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That's a beautiful flute, and a beautiful idea, Kel. Fantastic!
Karmajampa wrote:
I enjoy playing them, ... the clay is cool but nice to hold.
I don't know why, but that sounds very appealing. (Maybe because it's 10:30am and already too hot in here.)
Once you get the upper register and other issues sorted out, do you plan to "scale up" the flute into fatter/longer sizes? Are there limits to the clay?
-Darren.
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Did you know that variations on the word "Cerute" means "cigar" in several different languages?
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Justin.....
I was surprised that length gave me a 'D', I was expecting at least an 'E'.
The internal diameters run from 20 - 14mm which is what I was intending. The outer from 27 - 19mm.
I think also that some of my kan problem may lie in the utaguchi.
I will be making some more using this design, so expect some variation in results.
There is as much work in making them from clay as from bamboo.
Darren.......
I already have my next model ready, it is fatter and longer, I am not having such a reduction in the taper, it will be interesting to see what happens compared to this first one.
I like to play my 2.1 jinashi so hope to make a cerute that will match pitch but be different in timbre. I see no reason why a 2.4 could not be made, my kiln has a depth dimension of 800mm so I could go to that length.
I will keep the forum informed as to my progress.
Brian......
Yes.
§
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Do you have any samples of you playing them?
That will be cool...(a good way to market them too;-)
keep it up.
Geni
Last edited by geni (2006-08-13 09:51:00)
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geni wrote:
Do you have any samples of you playing them?
That will be cool...(a good way to merket them too;-)
keep it up.
Geni
Geni, I could make a sample, perhaps along with a jinashi to give a comparison, though I may wait until my next version....I'll keep in touch, email a short mp3 to you.
Kel.
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Karmajampa wrote:
Justin.....
I was surprised that length gave me a 'D', I was expecting at least an 'E'.
The internal diameters run from 20 - 14mm which is what I was intending.
§
You mentioned before a "narrow bellend". Is there no reverse taper? Maybe that is why the fundamental is lower than expected?
Justin
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Thank you Kel,
Looking forward to the e-mail.
I will email you back, some new music:-)
peace
Geni
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The cerute looks like a beautiful flute. Gambatte with the ceramic shakuhachi. Tairaku's comment reminded me...I was going through the airport in Paris two years ago with a Japanese friend who had taken apart a couple of shakuhachi to fit into his bag. He checked his hand luggage through the x-ray machine and the airport guy made a comment about the cigars in his luggage...
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I am open to a different name, but so far 'Cerute' feels the most appropriate, cigar or no cigar.
Difference with this one is that rather than 'suck' you 'blow'.
Kel.
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Tairaku wrote:
Did you know that variations on the word "Cerute" means "cigar" in several different languages?
The etymology of cheroot, from the OED:
[ad. F. cheroute, representing the Tamil name shuruttu roll (sc. of tobacco). An Eng. phonetic form sharoot was frequent c 1800.]
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Nota Bene:
Cheroot: pronounced 'Sha-ROOT'
Cerute: pronounced 'Seh-ROOT' (as in 'ceramic'...)
I know: picky, picky, picky...
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Attention to detail will focus the mind.
Kel. §
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I absolutely love your flute! I one day dream also of making a flute from ceramic. The interesting thing is that making flutes out of clay gives you almost complete control over your flute if done correctly. Also, since you have made a flute that worked well, I would like to offer a suggestion on decoration. Visit this website and find out how this Native Flute maker turns his flutes into Art. It will blow your mind. His method for making flutes is also very interesting.
http://meadowlarkflutes.com/
Also, you may want to look at this innovative solution to octave balance. There are also two other ways to make the registers play in balance as well as a mountain of other information on this site.
http://www.navaching.com/shaku/synthesis.html
Finally, from what I have so far learned about flutes there are three major factors affecting the ability to achieve higher octaves in order of importance; Aspect ratio (bore diameter multiplied by length), utagachi size, and back-pressure.
In other words, the thinner, the more octave power.
The smaller the utagachi, the less octave power. (A "proper" utagachi should be about 1/4 of the flute circumfrece according to navaching.com)
The more back-pressure (i.e. tapered bore) the more octave power.
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Thank you for your interest 'Fluteswordsman'.
I review those sites often as my flute-making progresses.
The difficulty regarding ceramic is it's hardness after firing, harder than steel, even diamond tipped dental drills work hard to make a dent.
But the sound produced by the glaszed inner surface is very different to that of any bamboo Jiari or Jinashi I have heard.
K.
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Many years ago I picked up a ceramic xiao at an antique store in Hong Kong. The xiao is a Chinese vertical flute with a deep V-notched utaguchi, generally made of bamboo (and the ancestor of the shakuhachi). This old ceramic one is modeled on a bamboo one, with nodes and all, and interestingly enough, the inside is also modeled on a real bamboo bore, with indentations where the septa would be. Perhaps it was made in sections and joined. Anyway, it plays quite well!
Congratulations on your cerute. If you get it down, it could be an excellent all-weather substitue for a bamboo flute, as long as you don't drop it...
Toby
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It is good in the spa and for playing to dolphins in the surf.
I hav'nt dropped one yet but others have, glues back together without much change to function.
The Chinese were masters of Ceramics many centuries ago, I admire their ability to reproduce and attention to detail.
But I like Japanese attention to going beyond, going further, becoming elusively surreal.
K.
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I just like the meadowlark flutes' colors! Its so amazing the colors and color patterns one can get by throwing in various organic matter with clay. His "pit-fired" flute method is so simple (or appears to be) and yet produces the most amazing visual patterns I have ever seen in ceramic. I now know what I'm going to do with left over organic matter, burn it and impress the colors in flutes!
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Too bad you can't show pics in these posts so my Avatar is now a meadowlark flute for the moment.
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FluteSwordsman wrote:
Too bad you can't show pics in these posts so my Avatar is now a meadowlark flute for the moment.
Actually, you can show all the pics you like. Since you have the images hosted on your website, you would use this format:
[img]Insert the link to your image (properly sized for the forum post) here[/img]
For more info, look just below and click on "BBCode".
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I can't believe I forgot about the huge clay flute picture at the start of this thread.
...
I hope this works:
Last edited by FluteSwordsman (2010-01-20 17:41:33)
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