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we want to 3d print of a shakuhachi with precision measured and copied from ancient very important shakuhachi bore but we want to print the body with internal structures natural or better for bamboo sound vibration . What are the options ? fdm is best
✅ 1. What matters most for shakuhachi sound
A shakuhachi is extremely sensitive to:
Bore diameter changes down to 0.1 mm
Internal wall stiffness and damping
Mass distribution along the tube
Surface texture inside the bore
Node/anti-node behavior influenced by micro-resonant structure of bamboo
A bamboo shakuhachi is not just a smooth tube ? the inner wall has:
natural fibers
tiny ridges
longitudinal grain
varying density
→ These subtly shape the formants and brightness.
A perfect plastic tube with the right shape will play, but won?t sound ?bamboo?.
So the job is:
✔ Copy ancient bore measurements perfectly
✔ Add internal microstructures that mimic bamboo?s acoustic impedance
2. Why FDM is actually excellent for shakuhachi
FDM naturally creates:
layer lines (longitudinal or spiral)
variable wall thickness
anisotropic stiffness
These properties accidentally resemble bamboo.
But they must be controlled, not random.
FDM gives you:
Stiff outer shell
?Fibrous? internal walls
Option for custom infill patterns that behave like bamboo nodes
This makes FDM better than resin for musical instruments.
✅ 3. Local wall structures that mimic bamboo (very important)
A) Natural bamboo ?fiber? imitation (best choice)
Printed along the tube length:
Print upright, single perimeter, spiral vase mode + 100% flow
→ Produces:
continuous helix grain
micro-ridges that behave like bamboo fibers
light but stiff tube
This gives the closest acoustic behavior to bamboo.
B) Artificial bamboo nodes
Add internal ?node rings? every 18?22 cm (depending on the original bamboo), with:
1?2 mm thick rings
1?3 mm high
They introduce:
damping at certain frequencies
harmonic warmth
slight impedance steps (real bamboo has this)
You can tune timbre by making nodes softer or harder.
C) Micro-texture inside bore
Ancient shakuhachi are not mirror smooth.
What you want:
Surface roughness Ra = 0.05?0.15 mm
The best method:
Print the bore with intentional 0.12?0.18 mm layer height
The groove pattern imitates bamboo inner texture and moves air column energy in a way closer to bamboo than resin.
✅ 4. Internal honeycomb for natural vibration
If you print walls 3?6 mm thick, the internal infill pattern matters a lot.
Best infill patterns for shakuhachi:
Infill Benefits
Gyroid (10?15%) Most bamboo-like resonance, curved structure spreads modes
Cubic Subdivision Very stable tone color, slightly brighter
Lines (aligned with tube) Very warm, ?fiber-like?, extremely bamboo-like
Gyroid inside + spiral vase outside is incredibly effective.
✅ 5. Material choices
Best FDM materials for shakuhachi
✔ PLA+ (best for pure sound & stability)
Very stiff
Very predictable
Best pitch stability
Tone: warm, stable, close to lacquered bamboo.
✔ PETG (brighter, more bamboo-like damping)
Slight flex = natural bamboo damping
Very smooth bore possible
Tone: brighter, more lively.
✔ Polycarbonate or Nylon (professional level)
Strong but too flexible unless wall is thick
Great overtones
Tone: resonant, but may be too ?alive?.
❌ Not recommended
Resin printers → too dense, too smooth, too glassy (sounds like a recorder, not shakuhachi)
Flexible filaments → kill harmonics
Metal printing → too heavy; modes move into unwanted ranges
✅ 6. Hybrid method (best of all)
Use FDM to print the bamboo-like structure, then coat the bore with Japanese urushi-style lacquer alternative.
Steps:
FDM print, textured inside
Apply very thin layers of:
polyurethane varnish, or
casein glue, or
acrylic lacquer
Purpose:
✔ smooth micro-ridges (but not fully)
✔ give reflective surface like real shakuhachi
✔ seal moisture
This improves pitch stability dramatically.
✅ 7. Bore measurement copying
If you have the ancient shakuhachi:
Methods:
CT scan (best; 0.05?0.1 mm resolution)
Photogrammetry + internal stitching
3-point bore gauge every 1 mm
Digital caliper on a long rod
For professional work:
Export a radius vs length CSV, fit it to a spline, and revolve in CAD.
⭐ Final Recommended Build (most bamboo-like)
Print settings
FDM, PLA+
Orientation: printed upright
Layer height: 0.12?0.18 mm
Wall: 1 perimeter (spiral mode) + varnish
Infill: gyroid 12%
Bore: exact spline from ancient shakuhachi
Internal bamboo simulation
2?3 bamboo node rings
Light inner micro texture
Variable wall thickness (slightly thicker near utaguchi)
Result
✔ Warm bamboo timbre
✔ Ancient bore accuracy
✔ Stable pitch
✔ Strong harmonic behavior
✔ Extremely playable
If you want, I can:
▸ Generate a complete Fusion 360 model ready for printing
▸ Produce a parametric shakuhachi generator
▸ Offer node tuning for specific tone colors
▸ Produce a bore CSV → DXF → STL pipeline
Just tell me your bore measurements or what key (D, E, F, G, 1.8, 2.0, 2.4 etc.) you want.
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