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Hi all,
Winter is always a very busy time in the repairs department of Yung Flutes. I did three emergency repairs this week. Please store your flutes in an airtight container. A simple dry cleaning plastic bag wrapped around the flute will do.
Here's a shot of my humid box this week.
Some of you are going to receive the cracked raw boo pieces I offered soon. When it arrives, you should wrap it in a wet, non fuzzy rag (a T-shirt is perfect) and place it in a container or Hefty bag overnight. This piece that had a huge 20" crack that was 1/4" wide. It completely closed up overnight
After you've closed the crack, you should bind it. Feel free to follow my instructions here:
Binding with Monofilament
Or let me know if you know a better method. I'm open to purchasing a binding machine
Have a great day! Perry
Last edited by Yungflutes (2007-03-01 17:11:51)
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Are there benefits Perry to a binding machine? I've never used one, I do all my monofilament by hand and it's always pretty tight. I'm using 50lb test weight line mainly.
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Writing my winter question as Vancouver receives a rare dusting of snow... Wondering about inlaid binding... (if I'm soon brave enough to attempt one...)
Care to speculate (or know) if PowerPro (the green 50 lb crazy-thin stuff) work any better or worse for the inner binding? (It's just something I have on hand.)
I notice it's common to coat the inner binding with either epoxy or CA glue before wrapping the outer cosmetic binding. These are both some interesting chemicals that give off heat and fumes and interact in complex ways with what they touch... I'm assuming this reduces the wound material's flexibility a lot so is it possible the real binding could be weakened (e.g. turn "too solid" or become brittle) because of these compounds?
Similarly, would a simple surface binding coated with urushi become brittle and less likely to move with any bamboo expansion/contraction over time?
Thanks! And may all your cracks close up tight...
-Darren.
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Yungflutes wrote:
After you've closed the crack, you should bind it.
Aha! It just occured to my what the humid box is for. When I used the hose clamps to force the crack closed on the first Japanese flute I bought, it opened up surface cracks elsewhere on the bamboo. I guess I was lucky they were just surface cracks. I could have ended up with a couple of miniature rain gutters. Well... live and learn... Thanks again Perry.
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dstone wrote:
Writing my winter question as Vancouver receives a rare dusting of snow... Wondering about inlaid binding... (if I'm soon brave enough to attempt one...)
Care to speculate (or know) if PowerPro (the green 50 lb crazy-thin stuff) work any better or worse for the inner binding? (It's just something I have on hand.)
I notice it's common to coat the inner binding with either epoxy or CA glue before wrapping the outer cosmetic binding. These are both some interesting chemicals that give off heat and fumes and interact in complex ways with what they touch... I'm assuming this reduces the wound material's flexibility a lot so is it possible the real binding could be weakened (e.g. turn "too solid" or become brittle) because of these compounds?
Similarly, would a simple surface binding coated with urushi become brittle and less likely to move with any bamboo expansion/contraction over time?
Thanks! And may all your cracks close up tight...
-Darren.
I know alot of folks use Power Pro and it's great line, I prefer Ande line http://www.andemonofilament.com so as an alternative check it out. It runs about 7.00 for 250 yards and it's a very strong line. I have been using 50lb and 60lb and I think I'm going to stick with 60lb. I have never used epoxy on the inner bindings, I simply use a few dabs of super glue on the knot where the line crosses and that seems to work fine but I'm open to new ideas. I guess I've always thought similiar that the binding may become to brittle and not expand with the bamboo.
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I tend to use polyurethane to coat the inner bindings and even sometimes the surface bindings. I use the 50 pound firewire fishing line most of the time because its a really dark greenish black. The polyurethane soaks right into the line sticking it together but doesnt really impact the looks too much. I find that it keeps the bindings tight and secured to the flute without looking like I painted them.
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